Brave new Mexican food
A corner café in Oxnard goes heavy on the ambiance, light on oil
By Saundra Sorenson 10/11/2007
I am weak of stomach. I like my Mexican food low on grease, and if that means it comes to me in fusion form (“California fusion,” for example), so be it.
I also enjoy Mexican fare that goes heavy on the fish. And although I truly believe the adage that some of the best, most authentic examples of the cuisine are served straight out of a catering van or a cart on the street, I leave such culinary adventures up to reviewers made of stronger stuff than I.
This is why I went in for Casa Escobar, a member of a small California chain whose Oxnard location is near Plaza Cinemas and Capriccio No. 2. With the addition of a Coldstone Creamery and speakers that blare Frank Sinatra embedded in the trees, this sweet mini mall is fast establishing itself as hedonism central in historic Downtown Oxnard. So it’s fitting that Casa Escobar offers a sleek dining room featuring wrought iron detailing, a baby grand piano and a direct view to the promised land of tequila bars.
I met a friend at Casa Escobar one windy Friday afternoon, and somehow justified ordering a strawberry blended Cadillac margarita. The mix was smooth and fruity, prepared by knowledgeable hands, although a tad light on the tequila. No matter; it was before 5 o’clock, after all. I ordered the Guacamole Mexicano to start, expecting a bowl of crushed avocado and a handful of chips. Instead, I was treated to a blossoming cornucopia of the lightest avocado and cilantro mélange I’ve ever had the pleasure of consuming, one that thankfully went sparing on the onion. Served in a platter-like taco shell, the presentation only enhanced my appetizer experience.
I then ordered the Salmòn con Aguacate y Tequila, grilled salmon fillet doused with avocado tequila sauce. Folks, I was impressed. Previously, my favorite salmon dish was Ojai Café Emporium’s salmon with a creamy lemon caper sauce, but this one gave my hometown favorite a run for its money.
The seared dish was complemented by a light green sauce and garnished by avocado slices. Let me pause here to point out the perfect harmony of two foods that are poster children for HDL, the “good” cholesterol. Ingenious.
Whenever I partake of salmon, I think of my mother, the woman who instilled in me a proper appreciation for the flaky, buttery fruit of the sea. When we go extravagant, we don’t opt for lobster, my mother and I; we go for salmon. Everything else (save for crab legs) is a waste of time. So I naturally thought of her as I enjoyed this stellar dish, and wished I could summon her to the restaurant at that moment to partake. Luckily, Casa Escobar had given me the biggest damn piece of salmon I’ve had set in front of me, so I was able to share it with my mother, in to-go box style.
Which lasted her about two days.
The fresh vegetables too were worth noting, as they appeared to have been marinated in oyster sauce. Casa Escobar immediately earned itself a few extra points for ballsiness; my Scandinavian heritage allows me to down these succulent little suckers whole, but oysters can be a buzz kill for diners with a more Americanized palate. Mixed with broccoli and carrots, I found the reminder of my favorite shell-dwelling creature pleasant and inventive.
My friend Sheldon ordered simple, opting for cheese enchiladas. We had worked both ends of the spectrum: a mandatory Mexican menu offering and something a little more unusual. We were equally satisfied.
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