Intercontinental cuisine offered at new Ojai deli
By JR Grant 07/23/2009
Oak Tree Bakery and Under the Oak Deli
11512 W. Ventura Ave.
Ojai (Mira Monte)
640-1638
Having spent some time and difficulty obtaining the name Oak Tree Bakery and Deli when that wonderful, but short-lived restaurant closed its doors earlier this year, Abjad (Abe) Karkenny decided he wanted to provide the Ojai Valley with dynamite deli food, calzones, pizza and, of course, some of his noted Middle Eastern recipes. Although Abe doesn’t have the OK from the County just yet for an outside barbecue cooking area, he is already planning succulent schwerma, souvlaki and other savory Middle Eastern specialties.
For now, though, Abe is cooking made-to-order delicacies, and while there picking up your food, you will no doubt get caught up in a conversation with Abe about any number of his previous forays in the Ventura County food and retail scene. In fact, when his customers learn where he has now landed, their “Where’s Abe” question is very happily answered and their palates are again satisfied with any number of his great specialties. The other day, I was craving a fatayer (a Lebanese spinach pie), but alas, had to settle for Abe’s freshly baked spanakopita, a Greek version of the same treat but with the inclusion of crumbled feta (goat’s) cheese. The great combination of spinach, onions, lemon juice, olive oil and just a hint of red pepper, encased in a very chewy and delicious bread wrapping absolutely hit the spot for my fatayer craving.
I couldn’t just leave it alone with the spanakopita, however, as Abe had just made some delicious-looking cabbage rolls, in this case little cigar-shaped cabbage leaves encasing chopped garbanzos, pine nuts, rice and an atlas of exotic spices. I was in a hurry and couldn’t stay for his other creations of the day, but he had just taken a baklava out of the oven, and I couldn’t resist just one piece to nibble on as I drove away. Abe’s baklava (which is actually Abe’s wife’s family recipe) literally melts in your mouth — the savory chopped walnuts (from an Upper Ojai orchard) between layers of mouthwatering filo dough and topped with sweetened homemade syrup and a hint of pistachio powder. Well, suffice it to say, I actually ate one before leaving and took another for later (actually less than five minutes later); I couldn’t resist gobbling it almost immediately.
I’m not overly fond of Abe’s calzone; they are very bready and stuffed with whatever deli meat or veggie combination you request. Abe uses various breads from several Ventura County bakeries, and their freshness can’t be denied, but for my taste a little too heavy. (Besides, I want to save room for some of that baklava.) On the other hand, Abe’s pizza is delicious because of the same type of dough from the calzone. The other day, I had him place Canadian bacon, pepperoni and ripe black olives over his very light tomato sauce and covered in mozzarella — a truly satisfying and unique brick-oven fresh pizza taste.
I like Abe’s falafel wraps and the falafel plate; the chickpeas, olive oil, onion, garlic, cumin and coriander blend together is a really savory delight, particularly topped with Abe’s tahini and or laban (really, really good yogurt) and a dollop of his extraordinary tabouli (which, with the addition of local fresh mint reminds me of the fattoush, a bread and parsley salad with mint). The laban is spectacular with the kibbeh (made with ground beef rather than lamb). Abe also has a very simple hummus, and will custom-create any sort of dish you like. He also stuffs squash and eggplant with either the garbanzo, rice, pine nuts and spice combo or, for meat eaters, he uses ground beef instead of the garbanzos.
All said, Abe is not quite ready for an influx of lots of business. It is just him cooking, relaxing and socializing in his former Alta Dena drive-through, but if you call in advance, and you have a specific request, I guarantee you will have a tasty delight waiting for you to pick up just before you get to Ojai on Highway 33. Just remember to save room for that baklava.
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